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HAIR DOS: RELAXED, NATURAL OR WEAVED?

Make-up artist Clare Eluka aka Spikes examines the pros and cons of styles for afro hair and fills us in and all the best products to make whatever style we choose glisten and glow.

Personally I have nappy hair which my mum used to wrap in silk and was referred to as 'Medusa' or 'Crystal Maze' hair. When I was 10 an older girl in my area relaxed her hair and I loved its apparent manageability. I went through secondary school rocking different weaves, extensions and varied lengths of relaxed hair. At 15 I grew it all out but four years later I fell victim to the relaxer again. In Christmas 2007 I vowed to cut my hair low and be natural for life! It might be fair to say that these major hair changes were boy inspired in one way or another!

So I'm sticking with my nappy head and I'm happy but because of my acting interests I'm always in constant opposition with myself about what is commercially viable and what looks too ethnic. It has been widely discussed that when you are in the western world you do as westerners do: meaning you adopt the image of beauty that reflects the majority of the land you live in. I guess ultimately hairstyles and hair types are down to the individual to define and re-define. What looks hot now may not in 5 years time so leave yourself open to adaptation.

The best thing we can do is care for the hair do's we do sport:

RELAXED HAIR

Deep condition your hair at least once a week. Opt for a conditioner that contains Keratin. It helps, immensely, if you can sit under the dryer for fifteen minutes with the conditioner on your hair. Good deep conditioners include Aveda Sap Moss Detangler and Body Shop Brazil Nut Leave In Condiitoner.
Whenever you comb your hair, comb from the ends up. If you comb from the roots to the ends, the tension could cause the hair to snap or break.
Treat your hair like a fine, expensive silk garment. It is best to avoid rigorous shampooing or styling. It may take longer to care and style your hair but the results are worth it.
Wrap your hair in silk.

What is in a relaxer?

The most common relaxers targeted for black hair come in two distinct formulations:

Sodium hydroxide relaxer:

The strongest formulation contains sodium hydroxide, a powerful chemical known as an alkaline caustic. The percentage of sodium hydroxide will vary depending on the strength of the relaxing solution (they come in mild to strong, depending on the texture of the hair to be treated). As with all alkalies, the higher the pH levels, the stronger the chemical. Hair relaxers generally have pHs ranging from 10-14. The higher the pH, the faster you hair will straighten.

Guanidine hydroxide relaxer:

These relaxers are commonly known as a 'no lye' relaxer- a term which refers to an absence of sodium hydroxide in the formulation. While guanidine essentially works in the same way, it takes two steps to create the proper formulation. The no-lye perm works by combining calcium hydroxide (an alkali created for lime and water) with an 'activator' solution of guanidine carbonate- another alkali. The result is a chemical cocktail thought to be slightly less damaging than a traditional sodium hydroxide with lower pH levels.

So to lye or not to lye?

Some milder formulas don't work as quickly or as effectively. Others prefer no-lye formulas because they can't take the burning of the lye. Relaxers are never supposed to touch the scalp but always do, and the longer it's on, the more the chance for irritation; those with lye tend to burn more. When in doubt check with your stylist.

Recommended no lye relaxers: Soft & Beautiful, TCB, African Pride, Organics and Isoplus

NATURAL HAIR

My hair has be natural since 2007. I had to change all my hair care to suit my hair. I love tea tree products and raw coconut oil.

Wash with non sodium Lareth Sulfate shampoos such as Neal's Yard, Lush Bars or The Body Shop's Bilberry Range.
Do a hot oil treatment with either carrot, coconut, almond, lavender or tea tree oil to nourish the scalp.
Overnight leave in conditioners work a treat and will strengthen the hair shaft over time.

If you have natural hair, enjoy it! Dye it, twist it, plait it and press it with GHD straightening irons but always, always grease it and wrap it. Treat it like you would a weave. Over combing can cause damage and make sure when you're in extreme weathers like direct sunlight or rain you cover your tresses with a hat.

WEAVES (AND BRAIDS)

Weave has got me through some of the shadiest points of my youth. When my hair wouldn't grow or I needed a hairstyle to match an outfit I could glue in a few tracks or get a sewn in full head. Now I take to rocking a wig for an immediate change. Hollywood depends on weave to glamourise and beautify stars.

Over the years weave has caused me major headaches and have felt now after sporting my 'fro for the past year that I can't actually wear weaves as I can't stand the pressure it produces on my temples.

Make sure you grease the scalp twice weekly with a little light emollient such as Dax or Sta Soft Fro products.
If you are brave enough to wash your weave or braided style make sure you sit under the dryer to dry the hair and re-style your hair fully with GHDs etc.
Do not leave in either hairstyle in your hair for more than 8 weeks maximum. Your hair should have a 2 week break every 6-8 weeks.

There are pros and cons to every decision you make where beauty is concerned. Make sure that if you add artificial products to your hair that you do the necessary treatments and aftercare remedies and take as much care with your natural hair with natural ingredients.

CLARE 'SPIKES' ELUKA

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I also have natural hair and found your tips very useful. Thanks, :o)

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HAIR DOS: RELAXED, NATURAL OR WEAVED?

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